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Whenever curating a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate well-known award-winning names. Yet, situated high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The honour has made the family utterly surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their small restaurant earning such a lofty ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular spot, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.